Known as one of the four most famous pasta recipes from Rome, pasta all’Amatriciana is a simple and delicious classic Italian recipe with quite ancient origins. It is popular with both children and adults throughout Italy and abroad!
History
Amatriciana, also called matriciana in the local dialect, was originally just a white spice (no tomatoes!). Many food historians believe it evolved from ‘alla gricia’. This was apparently the main meal of Amatrice shepherds.
The shepherds carried pieces of pecorino in their packs along with bags of black pepper, dried pasta, cured pork cheek and lard. Between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, tomatoes were imported into Italy and a tomato sauce was added to the recipe.
Amatrice became famous for creating this ‘new’ recipe, and in fact the town has held an annual festival to celebrate amatriciana for more than 50 years. In 2016, the festival was canceled due to the earthquake that happened just a few days before the date of the festival. It was instead held in Rome in December.


Romans love Amatriciana!
Although not originally from Lazio (in the Kingdom of the Two Siciis belonging to Amatrice Abruzzo), amatriciana has become a classic Roman recipe. However, it is more often served with bucatini in Rome and spaghetti in Amatrice. Both pastas work really well in this dish.
The people of Amatrice are very strict about the ingredients in this sauce and have been known to take offense when chefs get creative with their own versions. There is a lovely story about when two Michelin star chef Carlo Cracco admitted to putting garlic in his amatriciana and Amatrice town council accused him of ‘lack of judgement’ on their Facebook page!
The recipe below is based on the original, except for the use of olive oil instead of lard. Bucatini or spaghetti all’amatriciana is a recipe that everyone loves, especially children! So it’s worth adding to your own pasta repertoire if it’s not already there.
Ingredients
Assert: In Amatrice, spaghetti is the traditional choice for this dish, while in Rome, bucatini is often used. Both types of pasta work well for Amatriciana, so you can choose based on your preference or availability.
Guanciale: The authentic and traditional cut of pork for Amatriciana is guanciale, which is cured pork cheek. It adds a rich, savory flavor to the sauce. If guanciale is not available, thickly sliced pancetta is a suitable alternative.
Extra virgin olive oil: Some recipes omit olive oil as the guanciale releases enough fat while cooking, but adding a small amount of olive oil improves the flavor of the sauce.
White wine: A splash of dry white wine is used to deglaze the pan after cooking the guanciale, lifting the flavor and adding depth to the sauce.
Canned peeled tomatoes: High-quality canned peeled tomatoes are ideal for this sauce. If you prefer fresh tomatoes, blanch them briefly to remove the skin, then chop and use instead of canned. The tomatoes break down into a smooth, flavorful sauce.
Pecorino cheese: Pecorino from Amatrice is traditionally used due to its milder saltiness compared to other varieties. However, other varieties such as Pecorino Romano can also be used for a slightly saltier taste. If pecorino is not available, you can substitute it with Parmigiano Reggiano, although this will change the traditional flavor profile.
Peperoncino or chilli flakes: These add a subtle heat to the sauce. Adjust the amount to suit your preferences.


Expert tips
Go the extra mile for Guanciale: I recommend that you try to buy good quality guanciale as it is essential to achieve the authentic taste of Amatriciana. Guanciale can be found in specialty Italian grocery stores, high-end delicatessens, or ordered online from reputable sources that import traditional Italian ingredients.
Deglaze with wine for depth: Deglazing the pan with white wine after cooking the guanciale adds complexity to the sauce by lifting all the flavorful bits from the bottom of the pan. Allow the wine to reduce before adding the tomatoes.
Save pasta water to perfect the sauce: Before draining your pasta, reserve approx. a cup of starchy pasta water. If the sauce seems too thick after mixing with the pasta, gradually add small amounts of the reserved pasta water.
Step by step instructions
1) Clean the pork cheek thoroughly by removing any skin or crust and cut it into small strips.


2) In a large frying pan, heat the extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. Add the strips of pork cheek and cook until browned and crispy, about 5-7 minutes.


3) Once browned, remove the pork cheek from the pan along with some of the rendered fat, leaving a small amount in the pan for the sauce.


4) Add the peperoncino flakes to the pan and sauté for 10 seconds, just until fragrant.
5) Deglaze the pan with white wine, stir to lift any browned bits from the bottom. Allow the wine to reduce for about 1-2 minutes, or until it has almost completely evaporated.
6) Add canned tomatoes to the pan and cook for 10 minutes until the tomatoes begin to break down and soften.


7) While the tomatoes are simmering, put a pot of water on to boil for the pasta. Add salt when it starts to boil and bring back to a boil.
8) Add bucatini or spaghetti to the boiling water and cook until al dente according to package directions. Save some of the pasta water, then drain.
9) Return the cooked pork cheek to the tomato sauce and season with salt and black pepper to taste, keeping in mind that the pork is already salty.


10) When the pasta is ready, add it to the sauce along with a portion of grated pecorino. Stir everything together over low heat until the pasta is well covered with the sauce. If necessary, add a small amount of reserved pasta water to help bind the sauce.


11) Serve the pasta immediately, topped with more grated pecorino.


Storage and leftovers
Allow the pasta to cool completely before transferring to an airtight container. You can store leftover pasta amatriciana in the fridge for up to 3 days.
To reheat in the microwave, place the pasta in a microwave-safe dish, cover and heat for 2 minutes. Stir the pasta, then continue reheating in 30-60 second intervals, stirring between each, until heated through. If necessary, add a small splash of water to loosen the sauce.


Frequently asked questions
Yes, pancetta can be used as a substitute for guanciale if needed. However, guanciale is the traditional choice and provides a richer, more authentic flavor. Thick-cut pancetta works best, but avoid small pre-cut varieties for better texture.
In Amatrice spaghetti is traditional, while in Rome bucatini is the best choice. Both types of pasta work well for this dish, so choose based on your preference or availability. Some people also like this recipe with short pasta like rigatoni.
Yes, you can prepare the sauce in advance and store it in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. However, the guanciale will lose its crispness when stored. For the best texture and flavor, I recommend making the sauce fresh and serving it immediately.
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If you try this bucatini or spaghetti Amatriciana recipe, I’d love to hear what you think. Please post a comment here on the blog or post a comment on the Pasta Project Facebook page.
Your feedback means a lot to me!
Good appetite!
(This recipe was originally published in 2017)
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